Rio De La Plata (Montevideo – Buenos Aires)
Posted on | January 19, 2010 | No Comments
We left Montevideo and reached at night Playa Pascual where we made a breakin a pool-bar.
Break...
This night we slept at the Bomberos of Playa Pascual. The first time in Uruguay, that the bomberos recieved us. And they recieved very friendly, fed us and didn`t even ask for ID.
The next days we had to walk on the ugly highway. No villages and civilisation on the beach of the Rio De La Plata, the huge river which we actually wanted to reach all the time. So we took the route 1, which lead us to the town Libertad. It was 31.12.09. New years eve. We were lucky… The police hosted us this evening and we experienced the most boring New-Years, we ever had. Our celebration: Go out, see a few fireworks for 10 minutes, go back. But I didn`t really care. After such a long time walking, 31.12 is a day, like every other. And 01.01 is like a sunday. An awful sunday in our case. Even the shops with the sign “24 h open” were very closed. The first day of the year 2010 was just a day of hunger.
Me and the Duecks
After a good breakfest we walked on and left the highway. We knew the river (Rio De La Plata) was very far away and kinda difficult to find. We had to go through a labyrinth of paths, fields, farms, … We would have enjoy the nature so much, if it wasn`t 40 degreese. The paths changed the direction several times. Soon I wasn`t sure if I still walk to the coast or back to the countryside.
At last we found an old gym of a football club in the middle of a big grass-field. The window was open, as usual and inside there were cool bottles of Pepsi waiting for us. Again, a house with an open window rescued us.
We waited until 6 pm, so it was “just” 30, instead of 40 degreese. We moved on.
On the way to the beach
After hours and hours we saw water at the horizon. There was a sign at side of the way: “Camping”. And an arrow pointing to another path which was going north. We went there, hoping that the camping is not 15 km away, but maximum 1…. It were six. We arrived at the camp… closed. We were dead and not able to go back. In addition to that mosquitos started to attack as. Many mosquitos. Aggressive mosquitos. Like combat helicopters. We entered the closed camping, running away from the mosquitos. We found a man telling us, that the camping is closed and if we want to camp anyway we have to ask the owner. Eduardo, the owner, was sitting 50 m further and enjoying his dinner with some friends. He was very friendly.
“I guess it`s for a good thing… But if I were you, I would go a bit further, there is a balneario close to here. There you can get some food at least”.
We actually didn`t have any power to walk anymore. But the thought to have dinner this night was motivating. So we walked and walked and stopped again at a kind of bar which served only beer.
“How far is it to the next balneario?”, we asked
“Ow, it`s very close. Not more than 2 km. Go to this direction and walk on the beach”.
Ok, let`s do it. We already walked so much, we can do 2 more. And we continued. We went down and finaly arrived at the Rio De La Plata. It was night. Maybe 11 pm. We walked the first steps on the beach and I looked forward: There was no light, no noise, nothing. If the balneario was 2 km, we would see it. Even 3 km, even 4 km, it would be visible. But there was nothing. We just moved forward. We walked 1 km. My legs were hurting. I needed food, water and sleep. 2 km. It got darker with every step. As if a dark haze appeared in front of my eyes and got darker and darker. 3 km… I was about to collaps. Ju grabbed my arm and pulled me forward. I couldn`t think anymore. I legs moved by themselves and the only thing I could hear were the waves of the river to my left. 4 km. I fell onto the sand, unwilling to move. I needed rest and a cigarette. I took both while Ju took care of me. Half an hour passed. We could see the lights. Maybe 2 more km from where we were lying…
…1 ò clock in the night. We arrived at the balneario. People sitting outside, in the garden of a cozy looking house, talking. A man, a women, 2 daughters of our age. We asked about a place to sleep. “No, there is no camping here”, they said and invited us for dinner instead.
An amazing dinner. French Fries, Pasta, Wine. Of course we forgot their names, but not the time with them. We talked a lot, laughed a lot. They let us camp at their place and we ate together the next day. Thanks a lot to this wonderful people. It`s true: Uruguayos are very hospitable.
In a balneario at Rio De La Plata
The next day started. Our destination for that day: Juan Lacaze, where we had a couchsurf-contact. His name was Juan, like the city, and we were looking forward to meet him. So we walked, finaly on the sand again. It was an awesome day. Sunny. We had a bath in the river and a good, cheap pizza in a beach-bar, where we stayed until 6 pm. From this bar, Juan Lacaze was just 7 km away.
We were almost there. Happy we bounced on the beach, already seeing the city in front of us. After 2 other km it got really exotic. Plants and bushes everywhere on the beach. There was hardly place to walk. The more we walked the more nature we found and soon, we were creeping through the bushe, hoping to find a trail again. But it got worst and worst. There was no beach anymore. Just jungle and a bunch of anoying mosquitos again. We creeped back. The sun was setting. We came back to the part of the river which looked like a beach and not a wilderness. 2 fishermen were sitting there and fishing quietly.
“Excuse me?”
A fisherman stood up and came to us.
“Is there no way to Juan Lacaze?”
“Not alog the river. There is an interruption. And no bridge to the city.”
“How about boats?”
“No… This is a deadend here. You have to go back to the route and walk along the route, there is a bridge. And then,” he pointed to Juan Lacaze, on the other side of the water, “Once you get to the other side, go down to the river again and you reach the city”
“And how long would this lovely journey take us?”
“Well, it`s about 45 km”
We couldn`t believe it. 3 days of walk for nothing. The city was so close. I could see the windows of the buildings. But no chance to reach it. An no chance to swim or cross it walking, like we did some days before. So close and so far at the same time.
The fishermen took us with their Jeep back, where we came from and we stayed on a camping.
On Juans farm
Through thousands of fields and farms we walked on, again along the river, until we reached Santa Ana, a very cozy and nice village. The plan was, to stay there and make the last walk to Colonia the next day. But we felt a bit bored. We walked only 12 km at that day… It felt not enough. But the very next city was Colonia, almost 30 km further and we would reach at midnight. We were crazy enough to say: Ah, doesn`t matter, let`s just keep walking.
It was an awesome walk. Very long, very far. Again we walked along the route 1, which was really pretty at this part.
We walked and walked… And always, when the energy was over, there was always a place where we could get some new bananas and chocolate.
10 Km before Colonia the street turned to a tunnel out of palms. I called it “the way of glory”, the last 10 km in Uruguay!
Way of Glory (Picture: Google)
The way of glory looked like that for 3 hours. And finaly, with hurting legs of course, we arrived in Colonia Del Sacramento, the last station of Uruguay!
We spent there 3 nice days in Colonia, which is very safe and beautiful, and crossed eventualy the Rio De La Plata, to Argentina, Buenos Aires!
Buquebus to Buenos Aires
Buquebos to Buenos Aires
Buquebus to Buenos Aires
To the capital! (Punta Del Este – Montevideo)
Posted on | January 15, 2010 | No Comments
The day we started walking from Punta Del Este, Guido, Bruno´s brother, who became a friend, wakled with us for about 20 km.
We had a lot of fun and enjoyed his company very much.
Johnny Walker
Andrej, Guido, Juliana
At night we were still walking on the highway. No village or potential place to sleep. It was late in the night (as usual) and hardly anything to see. Half awake, half asleep, we moved slowly, step by step forward.
There was something like a supermarket standing at the side of the street. Of course closed, but there was something inside moving. We knocked the window. Ju explained with her innocent voice to the man (who was a bit scared) that we were lost walkers, searching for a safe place to sleep. The man let us camp behind the supermarket. And: He brought us sandwiches, a candle and a bottle of beer. He joined us for a nice chat. The day couldn`t end better. The next morning: Piriapolis, our next destination, was close. Maybe 12 km. I can tell you, this were the longest 12 km ever. It was about 40 degreese and our water was over very quickly. We were creeping the last 5 km to reach finaly Piriapolis. The whole day I was in a bad mood. But at last we arrived. What a beautyful town! I was so surprised: Everybody was talking about Punta Del Este, La Paloma, La Pedreira, … as beautyful places for spending your time. And nobody ever mentioned Piriapolis, which is five times better than the above mentioned places together.
Piriapolis
It was so nice that we even stayed one more day there.
The walk continued on the route. We decided to go to Solis. On the map it looked like at has maybe 1000 habitants. Just 12 km… Located behind a big river which we have to cross on huge bridge.about 6 km before Solis we got sick of the highway. We went down to the river and walked along the water. It was very pleasent. Fresh air, silence, the water, grasy ground and,… oh, what is that? A shrimp. The sidewards walking guys. How cute. Oh, there is another one. The ground is getting a bit watery here… Another shrimp, and another one. JESSE… THERE ARE THOUSANDS!
We found ourselves in a marsh, with thousands of crabs around us. The ground was covered with them. It was hardly possible to step forward. Because of them and because we started sinking in this marsh. The bridge was maybe 500 m away, but it was just impossible to reach it. We couldn`t go all the way back, because the sun was setting. I wouldn`t like to swim through mud at night, with shrimps around and on me. We wandered through the marsh towards countryside and found a hpuse with a big garden. And behind that garden there was the road, waiting for us. The only way was, to climb the fence, enter the garden, climb the fence on the other side and get away. So we climbed the first fence and tiptoed to the other side. When we arrived in the middle, I looked to my right and froze. A huge, hungry-looking dog staring at us. He was 3 seconds silent, and then gave a small “woof” from him. We kept walking to the other side, but the dog seemed to dislike our idea of escaping and started barking like crazy, coming closer.
Something else appeared: The dog called the attention of the houses owner, who called the dog back to its place.
“What are you doing here?”, the woman asked.
“We got lost, we wanted to get to the bridge”.
The woman laughed and opened the gate for us to get to the road. And finally we reached the bridge. Solis. Some houses, some trees and some streets in between. That`s it. I think it was one of the most boring villages I`ve seen so far. It was so boring, that we didn`t even think of staying there. So we kept walking about 5 km more and reached a forest with many little paths. People passing by told us that there was a camp, where we could sleep. And indeed there was. Itwas not public but belonged to the bomberos, who were training there. They let us camp, shower and have dinner with them.
On the camp of the bomberos
Next day we walked through the forest, directly to the beach, where we met Sam.
Sam - the seal
Our target for that day was Atlantida. The walk on the beach was awesome. Many little “balnearios” (villages at the beach-side), so finaly we didn`t have to deal with hunger and thurst anymore. A lot of tourists and fishers on the beach, swimming, laying around in the sand, watching us walking.
Amazing nature
And suddenly: Deadend. A big river. And no bridge. Going back was not an option. It would mess up with the nice day. There were only 2 possibilitys…
Option 1:
The Moses-move
didn`t work….
Option 2: look for the point with the lowest water-level and…
Walk
On the other side, Charly, the crab welcomed us.
Charly - the crab
And we kept walking until we finally reached Antlantida, where we stayed on a camping.
After washing our dirty and stinking clothes the next day, we decided to try something different. In the evening we bought some wine and drank it at sunset. Then we packt our things and tottered forward, to Montevideo.
It`s incredible… Walking drunk. You walk with 7 km/h with 20 kg on your back at night on the highway, and that for 3 hours, and you don`t even note it. We made a little break at a gas-station, ate something, got a clear head again, and walked more 5 km until we reached the outskirts of Montevideo!
Maybe I expected too much of the city Montevideo. We can`t really say that we liked the city, but definetly the person, who hosted us, and the place. We had a great week and are thankful for that:
Nicolas, Christi, Irina, Andrej, Juliana
With Fatima & Family
Luck and improvisation – The walkers best equipment (Cabo Polonio – Punta Del Este)
Posted on | December 28, 2009 | No Comments
In Cabo Polonio, at the 3rd day, Juliana joined me, to walk together until… god knows 
And so we did. It was 50 km until La Paloma… We started with comfortable 15, walked slow, enjoyed the beach, the nature, the sea.
Way to La Pedreira
On the way to La Pedreira
Made a lot of little breaks and reached a tiny village, which was very well hidden, maybe 500 m apart from the beach. It was not even on google-maps. We asked people, if there is a Hostel or a Camp …
“There is a hostel, but it’s closed.”
“Is there any other village close to this one?”
“No, only La Pedreira, 30 km from here”.
“I guess we gonna camp…”
“No, you can’t camp here. It’s forbidden. You will be in trouble if you get caught”
The first not very friendly guys I meet.
We were unwilling to walk 30 km at night… We were hungry… and it started to get cold. The nights are very fresh at the beach-side. But no place to stay… So… what can we do? Spontainiously we decided to go to the hostel and to look, if it was really closed. And yes, it was. We put our backpacks in front of the hostel and I knocked all the doors to check, if there might be someone. Maybe someone who could just give us a peece of bread. Nobody. Suddenly Ju came happy bouncing to me: “Chose a room! ”
“What?!” …
Unbelievable… The window to the reception room was open.
“Jesse, I can’t get in here, I’m having a bad feeling with that”, I heard myself saying, while climbing through the window into the room. The hostel looked like there has nobody been there for at least a year. We picked a key for a room. And… there was a kitchen. But well, what use does a kitchen have without food, I said to myself. One second later my eyes went over the table behind me: Tins… Tins with food. Oh my god, tins with food. Just a few. Half of them not eatable anymore, because too old. I collected the food together, which was still eatable while Ju cleaned up the kitchen. To cook in pure darkness would be a little bit tricky. Strange… the light doesn’t work, but the stove does… Let’s look for candles… It took us one minute and we found a bunch of candles. Amazing… As if someone was here before and arranged everything we needed. Awesome dinner!
The lonesome hostel - kitchen
The dinner
The room
What could we do as a fair tradeoff? There was nobody we could pay. Well… we cleaned up the whole hostel 
And the beach at the next day:
Cleaning the beach
We kept walking on the beach and the 30 km passed surprisingly quick! Suddenly we found ourselves in La Pedreira, even before sunset.
Me and Maria in La Pedreira
We found a cheap hostel and made a short walk to La Paloma the next day and rested a bit.
Looking on google-maps in the internet, we wondered, how to make 70 km without anything in between, from La Paloma to Punta Del Este. We didn`t know the answer but were curious to find it out.
The first hours: Sand, sand, sand. Nothing new. I walked next to the see, staring at the waves, passing a rock, which suddenly started moving. The rock… was a pinguin. Yes, a real pinguin, staring and barking at me while waving with the wings, trying to chase me away. This Pinguin – let`s call him Fred – had the same problem like Bob, the see-turtle. He couldn´t get into the water. The waves were too strong. I took my sweater and caught him. surprised by his very light weight, I threw him into the waves. Fred swam away. And we kept on walking.
We tried to reach the little place “Josè Ignacio”, but it was too far. The sun was setting and there was nothing. It got stormy. In the middle of no-where, between beach and grass, we found a kind of “house” under construction standing around in the land-scape. And the window was open.
On the way to Punta Del Este
Inside
We cooked tea and soup, listening to the raging storm outside, cheering on Fred, the pinguin.
The next day we supposed to reach Jose Ignacio (located behind a big river, which we had to cross) very early. So we walked slow and relaxed. Jose Ignacio didn`t come. It´s an awful feeling, to walk three days through sand, not knowing where you actually are. Our last food-reserves were eaten. Hunger. Big hunger.
There was a big ugly house standing, maybe 100 m away from the beach. Also under construction. Surrounded by fence. I threw my backpack on the sand and climbed the fence to see, if there is someone. An old man appeared, looking at me with a patient look and walking towards me slowly: “Can I help you?”.
I explained our situation.
“Jose Ignacio is still pretty far. And you have to hurry up. At 8 pm there are no boats going anymore and you are stuck here until tomorrow.”
“And there is no other possibility yo get food?
“Well, there is… you can hurry up to reach the road”, he pointed to the countryside, “but then you have to cross a lot of bushes and fields without ways. If you reach the road in time, you can catch the white truck. Stop the truck and ask for food. It`s transporting alimentation to the villages, for sure the driver will sell you some”.
So we had 2 missions at that day…
Mission 1: Stop the white truck.
Mission 2: Reach the river before 8 pm.
I almost ran through the fields to reach the road. The man said, the truck would come after 15 minutes, and the road was 2 km away. After a hurdles through rocks and bushes, we had to climb a barbed-wire fence before reaching the road. And finally we were there… exhausted. We were some minutes too late, but well, here in south-america no-one is ever punctual. Everything and everyone is always too late, so I hoped, that this truck was not the exception. We waited… and waited… And no truck came… Mission failed.
What else could we do, than continuing the way. Like zombies we wandered on the road, which seemed never-ending. Feeling weaker with every step.
On the way to Jose Ignacio
I heard a motor-noise somewhere in front of us, but still far away. I kind of hoped, it could be the truck,… but that was impossible. It was already one hour later. I couldn`t imagine, someone would be that late…
The noise came closer… “IT´S THE TRUCK !!!” Indeed, it was the white truck, which was really late… thank god.
I was standing on the middle of the road with the walking-stick, staring on the truck coming towards me. And I felt like Gandalf in the mine, when he tried to stop the Balrog, shouting “YOU SHALL NOT PASS!!!”.
The truck stopped. And we got our food. Mission 1 succeed.
It was 19:30 and 5 km left to the river, according to the truck-driver. We walked as fast as we could. The sun was setting. It was 20.30 and there was still no river. There was a fisher coming with his bike. Ju stopped him.
“Is the river close?”
“Yes, maybe 1 km.”
“Are there still boats going?”
“No! They stop at 6 pm”
“At 6 ???”
“At 6.”
“Well… Is there anywhere a place where we can Camp?”
“… Sure, you can camp at my place.”
Wilson invited us to stay on his field. We had dinner, breakfast and some nice conversations.
At Wilson`s place
The next day we crossed the river and walked more 10 km until the village Jose Ignacio. What an awful place!
There is nothing there, just some old people sitting around, everything is closed, it`s not even beautiful. And the cheapest hostel costs 100 US-Dollars a night. Cofe 6 Dollars. We bought 2 bananas and got out of there. We went back to the beach and walked until another little village, which was not even on the map.
Day 4, on the way from La Paloma to Punta Del Este, was over. We walked as much as we could and Punta Del Este didn`t come closer. I was already wondering if we passed it. No, impossible. It`s a big city at the beach. We were walking on the sand, thinking, where to sleep. There were 2 dots at the horizon coming closer and after a minute I saw a young guy and a young woman, going for a walk at the beach. I stopped them and (as usual) asked where we could sleep.
I couldn`t believe it. Again we got an invitation. Sergio, from Argentina, invitet us to his place. We drank a beer, rested, hung out and chat together. We enjoyed Sergios company a lot. He invited us to stay for another day and we decided to forget about Punta Del Este… for at least 24 hours. Yes we stayed. Thanks for the nice time, Serg.
With Sergio
The new day started. Well rested we walked a few kilometers and finally: Punta Del Este at the horizon…
We arrived in the afternoon. Do you believe that Punta Del Este (In Uruguay) is more expensive than Paris? No? But it is! Well, at least in downtown. Downtown is made out of big, ugly buildings which I would describe as “wannabe-fancy”. Thank god, we could contact Bruno. A CS-member, who hosted us in Punta Del Este for… 2 days? I can`t remember exactly… But the experience was awesome. Bruno and 2 other flat-mates welcomed us very friendly. The house was apart from downtown, full of arts, dogs, surrounded by nature and with a vegetable garden in the backyard, where Bruno taught us some things about gardening. We planted seeds.
Juliana - Punta Del Este
In the backyard
Very valuable time. Especially the moment when Bruno took us out to show us something I have only seen in Google before. Casapueblo. One of the definitely most amazing houses in the world.
At Casapueblo
At Casapueblo
Casapueblo (picture: Google)
This incredible art has been made by Carlos Paez, who I also met personally in Casapueblo, which today is divided in hotel, restaurant and the personal home of Carlos. Carlos is one of the 16 survivors of the Air-crash with the Uruguayan Airforce Flight 571 in the Andes mountains between Mendoza and Santiago in Chile – the part, which is by the way also on my way.
Anyway… the next day came, and it was time to continue the walk… Montevideo was waiting.
Almost like in a movie (Punta Del Diablo – Cabo Polonio)
Posted on | December 26, 2009 | 1 Comment
I didn’t get far.
I walked maybe 500 m and arrived at the hostel of Veronica who I got to know in the bar of the Diablo. A very interesting woman full of energy. I rested for one day there, before I left La Punta Del Diablo completely.
Veronica
Aguas Dulces was my next destination, which was pretty far. Maybe 35 km, maybe more. Of course I walked on the beach, as usual. Nevertheless the way at this day was really beautyfull. It got greener and greener, the more I walked.
On the way to Aguas Dulces
I walked and walked. After hours the landscape still didn’t change. It got really hot. I felt the sun toasting my arms, and my head. I took my last sip of water and hoped to find a little house somewhere there. But I didn’t. Just sand… and some grass, like on the picture.
Well, I was hungry, thirsty, and the sun started burning my brain so much, that I got a bit drowsy. Anyway, I kept walking. Suddenly I saw something lying in the sand. Another turtle?… No… a television. I sat down in front of the TV, which was lying around in the middle of no-where, and ate the last remaining biscuits.
TV on the beach
The program was very monotone, so I decided to walk on, before the sun fried my head completely.
After another half an hour it got serious. Still no houses or people to see. I need water! I got very sleepy. Slowly walking through the sand I got into a strange sleep-awake-state. An inner monologue started.
“Jesse… It’s pretty warm here… About 38 degrees? Or more… What is that? The sand get’s weird. Is there something at the horizon? No… nothing. Nothing at all. It doesn’t make sense to keep walking. I gonna die if I continue. I have to reach the city. But there is nothing to see until the horizon. Actually I don’t care about reaching the city. It’s not the city I need, but just a little bit of water. Yes, it’s the water I need. I don‘t have to reach the city, I just need water. Or… even better… a beer. Yes, a beer. My kingdom for a beer. I would give everything for a beer. If there was someone here who said: <If you stop walking now until tomorrow, you get a beer>, I would do it. Of course I would. That would be reasonable. What sense does it make to keep walking and suffering in the sun, instead of pausing, relaxing and enjoying a cold, fresh beer on the beach. Yes, that’s a good deal! Jesse… Why didn’t I have this idea earlier? I gonna do that. I stop for today and have my beer!”
I stopped. Still drowsy I sat down on the sand… the sun still glowing… I waited for my beer…
After about a minute I note, that the beer was not coming. A cool airflow passing by woke me up for a moment. I looked around and realized, where I was and what just happened. I seriously waited in the sand, in the middle of no-where for a beer to arrive. There was no beer. No beer at all. But anyhow the heat made me think the beer is coming. I got scared. So this is how it feels, to have a “Fata Morgana”. The heat has beaked my brain. I jumped up and kept walking. I had to get out of there…
I walked about 15 more minutes and suddenly a tiny village appeared. I went to the 5 or 6 houses, looking for someone. Nobody. Wait. There. A woman, cleaning up the garden. I went to her and asked for water. And I was rescued. She gave me a liter of lemonade, a banana and a peach. Suddenly I was completely clear again. Amazing what a lack of a little bit of water can make with you.
“You walked in this heat 25 km without water until here? Are you mad??”
“Yes, I am.”
“I see… Well, I suggest to hurry up to reach Aguas Dulces.”
“How far is it, yet?”
“About 10 km. And as I said, you have to go fast.”
“Why?”
“Because of the thunderstorm. The radio says there’s a thunderstorm coming from the west.”
Great!…
Though I was not really able to walk anymore, I walked. Fast. The heat was not a problem anymore. The sun was setting and the temperature fell. It helped. But my feed and legs were hurting anyway. But what choice do I have? I walked and walked and after half an hour I saw the first clouds in the west, coming closer. I speed up. After another hour it was almost dark and still nothing to see.
It got night. Lightnings. Still far away, but coming closer and closer. I was very relieved, when I saw the lights of the city in front of me. But that was the only thing I could see. Some shining dots in the darkness. I didn’t see the ground under my feet anymore. Neither the sea. Only the sound of the waves, maybe 10 meters away from me. Another half an hour passed. I got really worried. It seemed that the city was not coming closer at all. But the storm definitely did. The wind, which got stronger every minute, made it more difficult to me. When the lightnings were almost above me, I realized, that the highest thing in this area was my head. I was the only target. And with all the little metal-necklaces and metal-bracelets, I was a very good target. Which meant, that if a lightning came down, then I really could define myself as fried. Literally.
Thunder. I felt the first raindrops. The lights of the city, still the only thing I could see, seemed still far away. I started running through rain, sand and darkness towards to the lights. I fell down once, twice and the third time I fell into a small river. I climbed out and kept running while the storm got stronger. I never felt such a pain in my legs. It hurt so much that tears ran out of my eyes and down the face, mixed up with sweat and rain. The lights were close now… There it was. I could recognize the shapes of the houses. And finally I arrived. It was almost midnight. With shaking legs I walked through the dark village. Maybe 800 habitants here… Suddenly the rain stopped.
Are you kidding me!? Now, I arrived and it stopped raining!!
I was angry. I expected the weather to get mad now. With a huge storm and lightnings, hitting the ground everywhere, so that I could write something dramatic into my blog, like: “I escaped by the skin of one’s teeth. If I needed one minute longer, I would be dead, now!”.
But no… It stopped raining and the highlight got spoiled. And: My feet and legs were messed up. In this moment I hated the woman who told me “10 km to Aguas Dulces”. It were 17. Anyway… I arrived. Now I just wanted to sleep.
There was an open bar. Looked cozy. I went inside. One bar-tender, 2 young guests. Boy and girl, probably a couple. About my age.
“Hello fellow! You look tired.”
Indeed I was so tired that I just nod my head instead of answering. The couple was in a very good mood. They asked me what brings me to this place in the middle of the night. I explained. Excited they introduced themselves and invited me for a hotdog and a coke. Even a cigarette. I was very grateful. The pain was almost forgotten (not really). They introduced themselves as Veronica and Hornacio and explained me, that they celebrate the victory of the left-wing-party in the elections of Uruguay. I drank my Coke to it. We had a very nice chat about politics, music, countries and other things.
Veronica: “So where do you come from today?”
Me: “Punta Del Diablo”
Hornacio: “Ow, really? I work there.”
Me: “Are you? I did as well”
Hornacio: “Where?”
Me: “Diablo Tranquilo.”
Hornacio: “Ow… I also got once in touch with that guys… but I had very bad experiences there…”
Me: “Same here…”
Hornacio: “I work in another hostel, apart from the center… but tell me. Where do you intend to sleep tonight?”
Me: “No place, yet.”
Hornacio: “I offer you a room at my place. It’s just, I have no light at the moment.”
…
Place of Hornacio and Veronica - Aguas Dulces
The last time I rested so well, was one month ago. I spent some great hours with Hornacio and Veronica and continued my walk at the next day.
Veronica and Hornacio
Aguas Dulces is a very cozy, nice place. People are friendly. It seems that every Uruguayo is friendly. I haven’t seen an unfriendly face, yet. “Wait until you get close to the Capital”, they say.
I went out of the village and after 1 km I note, that I messed up with my knee, running through the sand yesterday with 18 kg on my back… Wonderful… I never had problems with my knees… never. And I was always proud of it. And now I humbled with 2 km/h until the next little village, where I had to make a break. I was walking towards Cabo Polonio. An almost legendary place. Everybody talks about it:
They say there are only 80 habitants or so. No cars, no streets, no electricity, only nature, the sea, friendly people (of course), fresh air,… But the conclusion: Thousands of tourists as well. But not at this time. It’s not summer, yet. Only 10 km left, thank god. More I couldn’t walk. My knee got worst every step. There was no other option, than to stay in Cabo for some days to recover.
Slowly the beach got sandier and sandier and soon, it looked more like a desert, than a beach. And soon I reached the river, which I saw on google-maps 2 days ago, wondering how to cross it. But the answer was standing right there, waiting for me:
On the way to Cabo Polonio
This black thing you can see on the picture (the only thing which is not sand) is a tent, with an old bearded man inside, who brings crazy travelers like me with his boat across the river. And when I did that… I found myself in a landscape, I have never been in before:
Little desert
Later:
On the way to Cabo Polonio
I walked until sunset and reached Cabo at the beginning of the night:
Sunset on the way to Cabo
I rested 4 days in the hostel of Pancho and had a fantastic time in Cabo Polonio. A marvelous place:
In front of the hostel
Cabo Polonio
Sea-lions
Resting in Cabo
Cabo Polonio
Panchos Hostel
The Silent Devil – III (El Diablo Tranquilo)
Posted on | December 26, 2009 | No Comments
I had only one wish: To get new shoes to continue my walk. There must be a possibility… I asked in other hostels, if they can make some advertisement for me. “You’re doing massages? Sure, we can hang your sign here at the wall”. The only hostel, where I couldn’t put my sign, was the one I was working for.
In one of the hostels I even asked, if I can work there. “Well we could pay you, but we don’t have space for you to stay… Where are you working at the moment?”
“El Diablo Tranquilo”.
The man laughed: “You see this people here?”, and he pointed to his staff. “They were all working in El Diablo Tranquilo before… Gues, why they are here, now… Well, give me a curriculum about you. If you want you can start here next month.”
A very kind offer, but the thought to stay in the Diablo till the next month was killing me.
Sunday. I worked in the garden again. I didn’t want to see anyone. Just me, the shovel and the earth. It was almost the end of the day and the backyard and the place for the garden looked awsome. The earth was ready. An Uruguayo was watching me for a while. He was about my age. He came closer and said hello. I waved my hand.
“Are you the gardener of the hostel?”
“As well. Not officialy, but yes, I’m working on it.”
“I did as well some months ago.”
“Really??”
“Yes, I made cleaned up and made a field, just like you did now.”
“And then?”
“I needed to buy worms and some things to enrich the earth of the garden to plant vegetables.”
“So?”
“They didn’t give me the money.”
“What?? But it’s their garden!”
“Yes… But they didn’t want to spend money for it.”
“So what happened then?”
“They messed it up again and built this wooden shed on the earth which I made for the plants”, he pointed on the shed, standing about 5 meters away from me. Silence… Then he kept on: “You know… I really wanted to build up the garden, I didn’t even wanted to get payed for it. But well… I just hope they will give you the money for the garden”.
I knew the answer… Of course they won’t. I didn’t even ask them. And in this moment, I knew, all I did here, in the backyard, was for nothing.
Monday. I went down to the constructors. With bagpack and walking-stick. Without any comment I shaked hands with Pepe and the other guys. Thanks for everything, dudes. I said bye to Dave, Alan, Ryan, Andy, Molly, Kathrine, Harry,… all the people I really liked. Unfortunately I didn’t see Fabian anymore.
And I walked on. With tarry trousers, tattered shoes and 7 Kg less in my body. But I walked. And suddenly I felt home again. Suddenly I realized, that all this didn’t matter anymore. Because now I walked again. I finally walked. How could I forget the most important thing. How could I forget the feeling of walking and get stuck here for so long?? I was free again. Free from the chains I put on by myself. I just didn’t understand what was going on with me. But that doesn’t matter anymore… I walk.
Anyway… Thanks a lot to Erin and Brian for the amazing first 2 days, when I was invited. And thanks a lot to the travelers and the constructors, who let me survive there.
This was the story of the fool, who made a deal with the Silent Devil.
(— Detailed Version in my book –-)
The Silent Devil – II (El Diablo Tranquilo)
Posted on | December 25, 2009 | No Comments
I came back from work. My massage-sign is removed from the wall. I asked at the reception.
Reception: “Ow, I don’t know what happened to it, maybe it fell down and the maid put it away afterwards.”
Me: “… ok. But it’s allowed to hang it there, isn’t it? If not, just let me know and I won’t do it.”
Reception: “It’s allowed, I guess…”
I hang a new sign on the wall, put some additional tape on it so that it couldn’t fall down again, and went to have my dinner.
When I came back from work, the sign was gone again… Something is weired here.
I talked to the staff, keeping my voice as friendly as possible: “Guys, you just let me know, if you want me to leave, right?”
Staff: “Of course!”
“So, what about the sign? Isn’t it allowed to have it there? Just talk with me. I just need to earn money to eat… to work for you.” In this moment I realized how strange my situation was… I needed to have an additional work, to pay my food, to be able to do the other work. I needed money, to pay the people I work for. If I managed to earn enough with the massages, at least to have enough food and sometimes a beer, then I wouldn’t mind. But the mysterious phantom, who was always removing my signs, made my life a bit difficult. If I just could talk to this phantom. But I couldn’t. Because the phantom appeared only, when I was not looking. I asked several times, who this phantom was. But nobody knew. It seemed that the signs removed themselves and threw themselves away… But only when I turned my back to them.
It happened once, twice, three times… I felt stupid asking a million times about the signs, about the sandwich (which I never got), about everything else. “Just don’t put the signs there anymore”, was the final answer of the staff.
The only sign, which was not removed from the phantom, was a little peece of paper, hanging at the corner of the reception, pretty well hidden, if you ask me.
Anyway, talking to the travelers, I managed to make 3 massages, it ment, 2 days food.
One day we had a very nice poker-evening which I organized in the hostel, great talks, great moments with curious guests who asked me about my journey and I went back to my room to sleep. When I came back from work the next day, my stomach was complaining. And I started worrying as well. I got thinner. I felt weak… I went to my room and opened my project-folder, to remember who I actually am. What is that? I saw something there which wasn’t there before… a message: “Andrej, have an amazing adventure…”. And 50,- US$… Signed by two travelers from Australia. It’s difficult to describe, how I felt. Happiness about the fact that I will have enough food for the next days and at the same time sadness about the feeling, that I am giving all my energy to the hostel, while recieving all the kindness from the travelers. The first thing I bought, was a beer. The second: Stuff, to make a huge chocolate-cake. For the staff and for the guests at this evening. Everyone liked it. Was a good feeling.
For some days my stomach didn’t complain. But sadness was still there, when I sometimes heard the staff talking extreme shit (excuse me for the expression) about me behind my back.
The constructors I was working with already called me a masochist. I came to work. I had a bad mood. I messed up with my clothes on work. And… with my walking shoes…
“What?! You ask us for money for to replace the shoes??? Andrej, you definetly can’t ask for that. You are getting much more, than all the other workers here” (Yes, this is what she really said. She was talking about the other workers, standing at the reception, listening to music, having a good breakfest, lunch and dinner, every day, leaving frequently for 2 days vacations to other places in Uruguay and in addition to that, getting a sallary of about 200 Dollars a month).
“Do you know how much you cost us? You are occupating a bed, you are using the internet, you are getting a dinner, you use the shower,… Just think about it… It costs us all money. Even when you switch on the light… It costs money… We are helping you sooo much already. Be aware of that.”
My tries to feed my stomach with internet and light, failed.
Another cuple of days passed. I came to work. I lifted a chair, carried it from A to B. I stopped to make a break. I was exhausted.
Pepe smoked a cigarett with me. He looked at me silent for a while…
“Andrej…”, another silence for a cuple of seconds.
“Get out of here… I’m serious… Get off.”
(To be continued)
The Silent Devil – I (El Diablo Tranquilo)
Posted on | December 15, 2009 | No Comments
Erin, the manager of the hostel and the staff, all from the US, resieved me very, very freindly. I felt extreme comfortable and welcome, telling them about my walks. I felt so much in love with this place, that I was thinking about staying for some longer. But first I had to meet Fabian. I had no money to stay in the hostel…
I met Fabian and we went to his place. Well hidden in the woods. A big field, surrounded by nature: Birds, trees, bushes, plants, horses, silence. And in the middle, a wooden house, where he offered me to put my tent. There he lived, with his 2 children: Luan and Sol. It got night. We smoked a cigarette, drank Caiperinña and philosophised. Alicia, his sister joined us later. An awsome
evening. Suddenly Fabian got a call from the hostel: “Andrej is invited to the hostel tonight… and he can have dinner as well!”.
I bounced back to the hostel.
An awsome night, talking with the travelers, the staff, sitting at the chimney, relaxing in the hammock, and later: Having a good dinner.
Sunrise. The next day came and I did`t want to leave. If there was a possibility to stay, I would do it. So I asked…
Erin, the manager talked to the boss of the hostel, who I still didn`t even see until then. “He`s always busy, running around, doing a lot of stuff”. I can imagine… Brian, as well from the US, like the whole rest of the crew, is now 27 years old and started the whole buisness when he was 24. Incredible. To come from the US to Uruguay, beeing 24 years old, without speaking Spanish and starting a half-a-million-dollar-project. And it`s running. It`s running very well. “El Diablo Tranquilo” is definetly the best equipped and most beautyfull hostel of the town. And of course the most known and most visited, though it`s more expensive than the others.
Anyway… I could stay! I could stay, helping with the construction of the building where they had the bar in the first floor. In the second and third floor they are building up a nother hostel.
Of course I will help… An honor to be part of this progress… and to stay here…
The bar (under construction) with Andy (left) Brian, the boss (right)
I started the work on monday. Full of enthusiasm I went down to the bar at 8 am, when the work was supposed to start… There was one construction worker, standing around with a confused facial expressian. I came to him, saying that I`m coming to help.
“There is no one here”, he said. “I don`t know what to do. We have to wait for the supervisor.”
The supervisor was Nekassio, but he didn`t come at his day, so Pepe, who arrived with his crew at 9 am took over. Work started… without me. I didn`t know what to do, and no one told me. I asked one of the workers, how I can help. He was thinking hard. “Ok, take a shovel and get some earth for the cement”. I grabbed the shovel and started shoveling. I shoveled fast and much. My enthusiasm was speeding me up. The worker, moving slowly with a bucket of water from A to B, stopped between A and B to make a break. Smoking his cigarett, he looked at me confused for a while: “What are you doing?…”
“Shoveling.”
“I see… But you don`t have to kill yourself. Relax.”
I didn`t understand that statement. What did he mean by “relax”?! We`re on work, man. Anyway, I kept shoveling.
Afterwards I asked Pepe, the one who was supposed to guide me that day, what to do. He seemed to have no idea. After a while of thinking he said something to me I didn`t understand.
85% of all what this guys said I didn`t understand. They speak Spanish without opening their mouth. When I explained them that I don`t understand, the started speaking nervously faster and louder…
The guys were very simple. Not the smartest. Not even regarding constructions. They build up the terrace, and days later they remembered that they have to install the water-pipes under the terrace. So they had to repture part of the terrace again. They broke several tools. They skipped work sometimes. They gaped at every single girl, passing by. And they ignored me a lot of times, `cause I wasn`t really able to catch up with theire insider-spanish. Often I felt like the only worker there. I was cleaning the floor, removing dry cement, brushing the rooms, making cement, removing a lot of trash lying arround, etc. until 6, sometimes 7 pm (with a 2 hours break in between). During the work there was alway someone just hanging around and doing nothing, talking, walking around, smoking a cigarette, then another one then another one, while staring at the wall with the look of a professional.
But well… After work I came exhausted back. I felt good. I did something. I gave something. And in the evening I had a nice time, chatting with the travelers and sometimes enjoying a beer, which some guest spent me.
Bar - El Diablo Tranquilo
Soon I met Brian. Indeed: Always in a hurry, but when you got to talk to him for a short time: Calm and friendly.
Anyway… after 3 days, I felt, that there was something missing… I was dirty, my hair was full of cement and dust, my clothes full of dirt. And… I felt a bit weak… I needed food! Until now my sallery for 7 hours physical work a day was a bed and a dinner. Ok,… breakfest as well (some peaces of bread with dulce de leche and a coffee). I started wondering. No one gave me any kind of lunch or money to buy at least a sandwich for me or a peece of soap to wash myself… They don`t seriously think that a human can work 7 hours a day on constructions with 1 meal a day and two peeces of bread in the morning… Do they? It`s physicly impossible. I desided to talk with Erin.
“Erin… Is there something like lunch or a little sallary for me to buy lunch? ´Cause I need to eat for the work.”
“But you get dinner.”
“Well… But just the dinner is not enough for 7 hours work with constructions.”
Erin made a oh-my-god-this-guy-asks-for-too-much – face, saying: “Ok, I make you a sandwich tomorrow”.
The next day I started work, already looking forward for my sandwich.
Slowly I started to get used to my work-mates. And they started to understand, that I understand them better when they spoke slow. Little small-talks became possible and a small but nice conection could develope. It was not the first time, Pepe started again with the same topic:
Pepe: “So, you don`t get paied at all??”
Me: “No.”
Pepe: “You don`t even get lunch?”
Me: “No… Well, today I get a sandwich.”
Pepe laughed, almost rolling himself on the floor. “You know how you will look like after 2 weeks?”, and he stretched out his small finger…
Siesta-time. I went back to the hostel. “Erin… You have the sandwich?”
“Ow, damn, I forgot… Ok, take this cash and see what you can get for it.”
Well, I got 100 Pesos Uruguayos (5 Dollars), which was even better than the sandwich. I could buy pasta.
Well, a week passed. Sunday was free… I went to the backyard of the hostel. It was a nice sunny day. The backyard was full of trash, wood, pest plants. It could be such a nice place, such a nice garden… How can they let it like that? I thought. I spoke to the staff… They planed to clean it up and make a garden there… But until now, nothing happened.
I started cleaning up the backyard, and a square for the garden and digged the earth. It took some days but it was amazing to see the progress. I discovered that I love gardening. Almost as much as walking. I love to dig around in the earth. Anyway…
The next day I woke up very tired. I had no food again. And no money of course. I felt very weak. The constructors shaked their heads: “How much longer do you want to do this?”.
That was actually a good question. I don`t know what still held me there. Maybe it were the nice evenings. Maybe it was, lying in the hammok sometimes, just beeing silent and listen to the wind and the talking travelers. Maybe the curiosity, how is it going to be if th second building is finished. And for sure it was my vision to finish the garden. To plant some flowers and vegetables there. But fact is, I needed food. I start to offer massage at the hostels for 200 Pesos per hour. I hang a sign on the wall in the hostel and hoped that I would get some clients. I went to work.
Pepe and the other constructers bought a package of tabaco for me sometimes. Sometimes they shared their food with me. Sometimes I got an apple. And once 50 Pesos to by a sandwich. It was very nice of the guys. They were not supposed to give me anything. Because I was not working for them, but for the hostel. They shared with me though they also didn`t have a lot. They were not very smart, there was not much to talk about with them, they were not even good constructors, they obviously didn`t travel a lot and were not the wisest men… But they were humans out of flesh, blood and with beating hearts in their chests, instead of business.
Me at work
Pepe
The way to the Devil (Chuì – Punta Del Diablo)
Posted on | December 12, 2009 | No Comments
Skull at the beach of Uruguay
03.11.09… I knew the day would come. My visa in Brasil was over. I had to leave the country and continued my walk from Uruguay on…
Chuì. A small ugly town. With a lot of shops. I walked through the streets, looking for a sign or a notice marking the border between Brasil and Uruguay. Nothing. I stopped at a big road and asked someone, where I can find the border between Brasil and Uruguay. The man pointed on the road: “Just cross the street and you are in Uruguay”. I crossed the street and entered the new country. Indeed… On the right side of the street the notices are all in Spanish, on the left side they are in Portuguese. I walked about one kilometer through the town until I reached the Bomberos. They let me sleep in a tiny Gym and the next morning I made my first steps through Uruguay…
Amazing… You can see it, but also feel it in the air: The country is almost empty. 3 Million habitants in the whole country. 99% nature. First i walked on a (empty) road, then I reached the coast.
La Coronilla, a tiny village with about 100 habitants. I asked at the police where I could sleep. “Ask at the town-hall”, they said. I went to the townhall and explained the young lady what I am doing and that I need a place to sleep. An old lady, sitting nearby on a chair in the entrance-hall jumped up: “No, we can`t let you sleep on the street, boy”, she started talking to the people from the townhall and didn`t stop, until they allowed me to sleep in the changing room of the soccer-field of the village, where a monster-butterfly welcomd me, flying around my head, and landing on my walking stick.
Huge butterfly - La Coronilla
After sunset I walked around in the village. The people are shy, but very friendly if you make the first step and talk to them. I sat down in the only open Bar and drank a coffee. An english-speaking woman joined me and we had a chat.
…
“So from here you will go along the coast, until Montevideo?”
“Yes.”
“So tomorrow you will arrive in Punta Del Diablo… It `s a nice place, you will like it”… she pointed on a man sitting 3 tables further “You see this guy? He is living there. He is very nice, maybe he will let you camp on his field”.
He looked sympathetic. I went outside with him to smoke a cigarette. Fabian, maybe 30 years old, with warm, smiling eyes, a very clear voice and very clear Spanish, offered me to stay at his place, when I arrive there.
“How long do you intend to stay in Punta Del Diablo?”, he asked.
“Just one night I think.”
Fabian chuckled… “Well… I don`t think you will stay only one night ,… But let`s see… If you arrive , You can go to a hostel called “El Diablo Tranquilo”. There you can ask for Fabian and the guys will call me. I can pick you up then.”
All agreed.
The next morning I walked about 20 km through the sand (again). But this time it was different… It was Uruguayan sand. I know sand is sand… doesn`t matter in which country it lies… But this sand seemed to be different in any way… I really, really enjoyed it.
On the way to Punta Del Diablo - Uruguay
Me and Bob - the sea-turtle
Bob swam away…
And I kept walking… Until I arrived in Punta Del Diablo. I went to the hostel “El Diablo Tranquilo”. It was still sunny. The red and very nice looking hostel, located on a little grasy hill, with 2 floors a beautyfull terrace and hammocks, had a magnetic, almost hypnotic charisma. Music coming out, Yoga-classes in front of the hostel, smiling, english-speaking people. I was impressed and went up the hill to the entrance…..
(To be continued…)
Just sand… (Jaguaruna-Porto Alegre)
Posted on | December 11, 2009 | No Comments
The title speaks for itself…
Sand
There is really not much to say about this part of the route. Sand, sand, sand. And the next day sand again…
There are not many picture to take, not many experiences to talk about. I start getting tired of sand. 300 km sand. Or even more?
I arrived in Arroio Da Silva at night and entered the only open bar. The bar-tender, a maybe 45 years old man with huge glasses greeted me first and then eyeballed me scepticly. “What are you doing here at night? Are you a tourist? There is nothing to see in this town. Especcialy at this time”. I explained him what I am doing. A customer listned and asked me if I already have a place to sleep. I shaked my had.
“I can`t offer you my place but I can bring you to a cheap hotel. Maybe they let you camp in the backyard.”
We went to all Hotels of the ugly town… All of them were closed. The bars as well. The man left and I was walking through the streets at midnight, hoping to find at least a ruin, where I can sleep. Then I saw something really paradox: The only open thing in the town: A farmacy. At midnight. But bars and hotels closed… The lady from the farmacy sent me to a house, which looked more like a building lot. “Ask for Vanessa”, she said. I was standing at the gate and knocked. A woman in a bathrobe came out of the ruin. My god, what beautyfull eyes… “Are you Vanessa?”, I asked. “Yes”, she said. “I need a place to sleep”.
“Who sent you?”, she asked… “The lady from the farmacy”. She opened the gate and I came in. “Wait here”, and she went away. At the same moment I heard dteps. Maybe 4 or 5 people running somewhere in an alley, very close.
“Get that gringo! … Where`s he got to?! ”, I hid.
“Where is he?!” the guys stopped in front of the gate. “The fucker escaped!”…
Silence… Vanessa, still in the bathrobe, came back. I got out of my hideout. She brought me to my room: A broken closet, a broken tv and an almost broken bed. That`s all. But I was fine with that. Actually I just need the bed. I turned around. Vanessa came closer to me and looked at me with her hypnotising eyes… A strange moment of silence… “20 Reais!”, she shouted abresively and so surprising that I almost jumped out of my skin. I gave her the cash ans she went away. I fell into the bed and slept. A weired day.
The next day: Sand. Until Passo de Torres:
On the other side: Rio Grande Do Sul State
This river is the border between Santa Catarina and Rio Grande Do Sur.
Curious I crossed the bridge and entered Torres. The first thing I note: Every second persond carries a wooden cup with a metal straw, with a kind of tea inside, called “chimarrao” (Mate).
I asked the police and the bombeiros for a place to sleep. Both refuesed. I camped at the side of the city. Next day: Sand.
A break in the Sand
I finnaly arrived in Osòrio, which was the last city of my way to Porto Alegre. It was the 23.10, so 2 days before my birthday. After Osòrio I would have to walk through the outskirts of a city with millions of cityzens, which meant: Bus-time. As you remember: No I don`t walk every single meter. Huge citys are my exceptions 
My birthday, I celebrated in Porto Alegre.
Thanks to Mauni, Tiago, Luis, Nick, Joka, Bruna, Jaque, Athos and Renata for the great time.
With Bruna & Friends in Porto Alegre
Sun, storms and animals (Florianopolis – Jaguaruna)
Posted on | October 16, 2009 | 2 Comments
What a nice time in Florianopolis.
And really: Friendly people, amazing beautiful girls and for sure the beaches are nice, too. Unfortunately I saw only 2 of them. The sky was cloudy almost all week long.
Me and Juliana were hosted mainly by Luiz, who is an excellent person and who became a good friend as well. A very relaxing time.
Luiz and Juliana in Florianopolis
Florianopolis
We went for a walk in a park, and the animals I saw there made me laugh a lot of times. One example:
Chicken on tree
I never saw chicken, hanging out on high trees before. There were also funny turtles, giant-rabbits, ducks and other strange birds, mixed together.
After a nice week and a disappointing message at the federal police (no Visa extended), I continued walking and decided to do the only thing I can so: Walk as much as I can, and the day my visa expires, continue from Uruguay on.
The first day I went to Palhoça. It was rainy, but it was very nice anyway. The grey weather and the silent water gave the ocean an amazing view:
On the way to Palhoça
On the way to Palhoça
I passed a village which was smelling fish. All the time. I expected to see some fishermen, but there was nothing and no one. Everything silent. I needed a coffee, but all stores and bars were closed and actually they looked like they have never been open. The rain got stronger and I got more tired. I sat down under a roof of a closed bar and smoked a cigarette. I started to play the harmonica. The music was the only hearable sound. And still no people, no movements, not even wind. Only the rain and the ocean… and my harmonica.
In Palhoça I slept at the Policia Civil, outside in my tent and the next day I walked along the highway towards Paulo Lopes. Distance: 37 Km if I remember correct. After the first kilometer I note, that my camera was gone. I freezed. Impossible. I tried to remember when I used it the last time. And that was last night in my tent, before I went to sleep. When I left, I packed all my things, put everything into my pockets and at last the tent was empty, and there was no camera.
I got very frustrated. I left my bagpack in a restaurant and ran back to the police. No camera. Nowhere. What a nice day: The sun is shining, it´s warm, people are smiling, but I don´t care and I hate the day, because my new(!) camera is gone, and there will be no pictures on the website again. I was so angry that I walked very, very fast and very far without a break. After 15 Km I was finished and sat down at a bar, located at the highway. I asked for a beer and wanted to take some new socks from my bagpack. I grabbed into the bagpack and found the camera, lying there besides the socks. Finally the day was good again. I was so happy and drank my beer within a minute. I wanted to check if it´s still working and looked for something to photograph. In this moment something flew from the other side of the highway, directly in front of my face:
Kolibri
I was so glad that I got my camera that I walked very fast and very far (again) for another 15 Km, singing songs and enjoying the sun. Until my feet started to hurt like hell. It has been more that 30 Km now and still no city close. It got night.
I walked and got really tired. I hoped to reach the city soon, because the highway was very dangerous at that part. So I walked and walked and the street seemed to be endless. Suddenly I heared a voice behind me…..
“Hey man, wait a sec”, I turned around. There was a cyclist appearing from the darkness. He was black so I had difficulties to recognize his face. But the few things I saw were really not sympathetic to me. He got off the bike and started walking besides me.
“Are you going to Porto Alegre? I am also going to Porto Alegre. It´s still long way, but I don´t want to go alone. You know there is a friend of mine living close to here at the border of Paulo Lopes, you can sleep there and tomorrow morning we continue together to Porto Alegre. I will join you from now on until there. Let´s go together!”
I couldn´t believe it… The same thing like on the BR 116. The guy started to talk and didn´t stop anymore. It was very scary. There is a dark shadow at night walking besides you and talking to you in a language you almost don´t understand. The only things I understood were:
“You go to my place today. We are almost there. You stay there and then I go with you. I am your friend. I stay with you…” and so on. He looked like a psycho. This time there was no Lan-House or something, which could rescue me, so I had to try something different. I told him that I don´t speak Portuguese and stopped looking at him and walked fast straight forward. He followed me and kept asking me questions, without even waiting for the answers. I ignored him for one hour and anyway he didn´t go away and kept following me and talking. I got a headache. I was thinking, how to get rid of him…
After one, when it got really annoying hour I got slower and stared serious into his face. Suddenly he was quite. I looked around, pretending to get sure that there are no eye witnesses and then I gave him a “now-it´s-over-with-you-look”. I coulndn´t believe it: It really worked. He changed the side of the street and even hide in bushes.
30 more minutes I had to walk to the police-station of this little city, which seemed pretty dangerous to me. I slept in a tend behind the police-station. An was glad to leave this place the next day.
The positive things about this day, were the amazing view, and the very friendly people, feeding me with really good food and drinks on the way.
On the way to Imbituba
But after a 7-hour-walk, even the amazing view gets boring. The battery of the MP3-player was low and all songs I know were sung (In 6 languages). I started to count my steps, to count the cars passing by and the birds in the sky. Nothing robs so much energy, than boredom. And finally I decided to sleep half an hour at the side of the highway.
A break on the BR101
I was glad to be relieved when I arrived in Imbituba at the Bombeiros, who gave me fantastic food and a document, telling the other Fire-Brigade-Stations to receive me.
The next day was very stormy. I walked along the beach, which looked very normal at the beginning, but the more I walked the more it turned to a stormy desert. The wind was extremly strong. It would blow away a small dog.
Beach between Imbituba and Laguna
After 3 hours of walk (15 Km nothing but sand and wind) I arrived in a little village. I entered. I was very hungry but I had no money at all in my pocket. And there were also no bars or markets open. Actually it looked like the village, which I passed when I left from Florianopolis: There was nothing and no one. Absolute silence everywhere. I walked through the streets and found an open restaurant. There was an old man sitting outside and smiling. He had very warm eyes. I sat down to rest a bit.
“Traveller?”, he asked, smiling.
“Yes”, I answered and a little chat started. We talked about 15 minutes. I told him a bit about me and he told me a bit about him. It was a nice moment and I even forgot abou my walk.
“I am from Blumenau”, he said “but nowerdays I live here… it´s very quite and peacefull here, isn´t it?”
I nod.
He continued: “I travelled a lot, like you do it now. Now I am making a little break… ” and he kept still for some seconds.
“But soon I am going to travel again…” he looked at me “I am still young. I am 68.” and his smile got lighter. “This is nothing”…
Another silence for a minute. Just the wind and the silent radio-music in the background.
“I would like to invite you for lunch.”, he said.
And the lunch was fantastic. Very delicious. We didn´t talk. We just ate and enjoyed the silence.
And later, when I was ready to continue my walk, with the bagpack on my shoulders, he said:
“Go your way… Go always your own way. And listen only to your inner voice. Never to the other voices. It is necessary! … It is really necessary!” and a little tear appeared in his right eye, followed by another moment of silence. “People are so confused nowerdays… Very confused”.
“I wish you a good way and a good life. It´s still 17 Km through the sand to Laguna. All the best”. And he got into his car, smiled and waved his hand. I waved back and continued my way happy, with a little touch of sadness.
The stormy way to Laguna
Dead Pinguin
I felt like in a desert. The sand was flying into my face and most of the time I had to close my eyes. It was almost sunset and there was still nothing but sand. I got a bit desperated. And in this moment I saw something very strange:
Dog in the middle of nowhere
The dog was sitting there between the dunes and relaxing in the storm. He didn´t move. First I thought, I am seeing something like a Fatamorgana, an illusion. I start getting mad. But when I came closer he looked at me. I sat down and rested a bit. I started talking to the dog, but he didn´t speak English, so I left after 5 minutes, wondering where he comes from and why he´s sitting there. Maybe after 30 minutes I saw Laguna. I arrived at night.
In Laguna I slept at the Bombeiros again. I even had my own room (with my own computer), a good dinner and a warm bed. Nothing to complain about.
Next day: 34 Km to Jaguaruna.
The route was very annoying. The road to Jaguaruna was like that:
Way to Jaguaruna
And it was endless. The people living in the little houses located at this path upset me most at this day:
Me: “Excuse me, how many kilometers are left to Jaguaruna?”
Man: “12″
“Oh, great”, I thought. After one hour walking I asked the same question again. The answer “15″.
After another hour I asked again and the man said “20″ and I asked him, if I am going to the wrong direction. “No, no, you are going correct”, he said. I felt like kicking him and all the other habbitants of this village. I was finished and there were still 20 km to go (if the information of the man was correct… But very probably it wasn´t).
And indeed it wasn`t. 23 more kilometers were missing. When 5 km in front of Jaguaruna, I note that there was a man following me by motorbike slowly and staring at me smiling. He stopped in front of me and started a small talk. I wondered what he actually wanted. I didn`t take long to find out. He was Jehovah’s Witness, started a monolog about the bible for the next 30 minutes and every try to explain him that I was in a hurry failed. Finaly I got rid of him. It was almost sunset when I arrived. I had a meeting with Gustavo from CS at the entrance in Jaguaruna between 5 and 6 pm. I had no idea what time it was but probably it was too late. In addition to that I wasn`t really sure where the official entrance to Jaguaruna was and of course I got lost in the streets. I was about to drop the hope that I gonna meet him. Probably I was too late and I was walking in the middle of no-where anyway. I was about to look for the bombeiros when somebody waved his hand, greeting me. It was Gustavo. “Good timing. it`s 5:30 pm”…
Gustavo and his family welcomed me very friendly. We had very good lunch and I could sleep in a coasy bed. The day was very relaxing and I decided to enjoy the next day in Jaguaruna as well.
I got to know Gustavos friends
In Jaguaruna
and some funny anymals of the house, like the talking parrot.
Parrot
Jaguaruna is located at the beach, which has a lot of dunes.
Sandboarding
And the fantastic day ended with an extraordinary Pizza-dinner in Tubarão, where I ate things like Icecream-pizza and Chickenheart-Pizza.
In Tubarão
When I left the next day, I was enriched with a lot of nice experiences and memories. Thanks a lot, Gustavo!
Me and Gustavo