Andrej Raider

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The Coast Of Death (Santiago de Compostela – Muxìa)

Posted on | July 4, 2011 | No Comments

Lets get a bit more detailed. In Santiago de Compostela, my soulmate Janina joined me. We rested 2 days in Santiago de Compostela and eventually started the walk, with a budget of 50 Euros, towards Finisterre, also known as “the end of the world”. At the end of the day we arrived in Negreira and slept in a hostel. A young bask was only company that evening. The following 3 days storms and rain went with us. Permanently. It became quite cold and the sun was setting when I realized that there were still 12 km to go before we reached our target for this day. And it was still raining buckets. This was actually one of those challabges I would like to disclaim. There s nothing I hate more than the cold and rain. There was no point in avoiding the puddles since everything was completely wet anyway. And I really mean everything.

Arriving in the hostel, we rushed to the shower (which was a 1–square-meter–room with a hole in the wall warm water was dripping from). Afterwards we had a cozy evening with the only hostel-companion, Luis, a Brasilian camino-walker. The next day I had the great idea to put on my rain-coat. I was unwilling to put it on the day before. I generally dont like jackets. And besides that, Janinas rain-coat prooved me that in such a strong rain the best rain coat doesnt help anymore. But I was very surprised to see, that this old, dirty, “unprofessional” rain coat, looking like a trash-bag which I found on my protected me so well that not a single drop came through.

We arrived in Casa Miguel in Finisterre. Those who walked the way until “the end of the world” know what I am talking about. Those who didnt, feel free to check in wikipedia. We rested for 2 days and continued our journey towards Muxia. A little dog followed us the whole way to the small town Lires at that day. We continued the following morning through mires, mud and labyrinths of woods, wading through small rivers, until we reached Muxia, the coast of death, the final destination of the way of St James. Muxia, a village which indeed seemed to be dead at that day. The sky was as grey as the walls of the old houses, rain, shabby areas and not a single human being. Like a Zombie-village without zombies.

We fell asleep in the giant – but ugly – hostel. The hostel-ward was the only human being we saw that day. And he seemed as dislikable as the hostel and the whole village. When the morning came I decided to chant at the so called “coast of death”. This was a unique experience I will talk more detailed about in my book. It felt like the waves are answering to my chant. They were dancing and blustering furiously in front of me. And after finishing the chant I opened my eyes and saw a wall of water in front of me, which hit me in the same second and pulled me towards the sea. Whatever this mysterious power was, which rescued me at that day. I am very thankful, that it protected me.

Nature - On the way to Finisterre

Nature - On the way to Finisterre

Finisterre

Finisterre

Muxia - at the coast of death

Muxia - at the coast of death

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